Eat like a Lord
Review by Lord Bradford
from the Express & Star, 10 April 2000

The Pheasant at Broseley in Shropshire might be described as a pub with character - and the character in question is the owner, Clive Vasey.

Unpredictable? Definitely. Knows his food and cooking? Yes. Could upset sensitive people? For sure. Creates a fun environment to enjoy some excellent food and have one of the best evenings out in the West Midlands? Undoubtedly!

This is where shrinking violets should return to another part of the paper as you might not enjoy the up-front nature of Clive's humour. As for me, I loved it - and gave as good as I got. When I accused him of only serving banana fritters to use up his brown bananas he appeared from the kitchen to show off his bunch of bananas, and then proved me wrong by producing a wonderful whole banana fritter with home made ice cream.

My wife arrived in her very politically incorrect mackintosh with a fur lining, which he immediately insisted on trying on, and told her she was patently wearing it inside out!

But there is also a prettier half to the partnership ! Sue makes up in charm and looks whatever Clive may lack! If off-beat humour ruffles any feathers these are effectively and immediately soothed by her.

The place positively oozes atmosphere though. When you study it carefully. It is very simply decorated with period oils on the walls and bare tables. The music plays at a volume that suits Clive's mood at the time. So beware - and just hope he is feeling mellow or you may get blasted instead.

The food could not be described as "haute cuisine" and to be totally fair. It is not aiming to be - though it is a definite cut above your normal pub grub, as are the prices. They are still very decent value, but the reality is that The Pheasant is more of a restaurant then a pub.

You need to make a booking for busy times and there plenty of those. It was absolutely packed the night that we went there.

Starters range from sauteed button mushrooms finished with garlic and fresh herbs served in a crisps tortilla to pan fried devil kidneys (or devilled kidneys perhaps) in a creamy mustard sauce with toast triangles.

You can't fit too many dishes to the page with that length of description and they don't; but with their daily specials, there is enough choice to satisfy the most demanding of customers.

The great thing is that everything is very much home prepared and cooked - no standard, frozen and re-heated products that you find in so many other establishments in the Telford area.

We began with the kidneys, mushrooms, a Greek feta cheese salad - drizzled with a vinaigrette - and a dish of smoked salmon with poached qualls eggs. The portions were generous. They were colourfully presented and there was bags of flavour.

The wine list is short, but our Sauvignon Blanc from the Pays d'Oc at a sensible price proved to be most palatable. Dry yet fragrant. It was typical of the huge strides the regional French producers have made in improving the quality of their offerings.

Clive and Sue are justifiably proud of their steaks. We went for a generous sized fillet and a hug 16 oz T-Bone , now fortunately back on this country's menus after too long an absence. They were magnificent and accompanied by marvellous home-made chips and fresh vegetables.

Alternative main courses include their famous roasted half duck with mango and orange sauce but we are saving that for need time. Our other entrees were a Dover sole special and Cajun spiced lamb cutlets.

The couple that came with us that evening were old friends of Clive and Sue's, which seemed to encourage him to be even more outrageous than normal, with little quips sometimes delivered in a Black Country accent, to accompany every course, whenever he happened to materialise from the Kitchen.

The whole evening proceeded at a very leisurely pace - but not because of the speed of service which could not be faulted. Why on earth should anybody feel a need to rush things when you are all having fun ?

We were all tempted by the bread and butter puddings - "with brandy soaked sultanas". Clive proudly announced. Whereupon I accused him of only waving the brandy bottle over them, which further incensed him.

So two portions appeared to prove his point, which they did. Reality lovely and again very obviously a home produced item.

So, finally, I turned to Clive again "my apologies for doubting you, as you can definitely taste the brandy - but the wicked thought crossed my mind that maybe he had added a bit extra to prove his point!

Next - see what Nathan Rous said about us here!